Emily's Exploring Quill

Universality of Ideals across 16 Countries : Happiness and its 7 billion definitions

emily-sarah — Fri, 06 Jul 2012 14:46:20 -0400

What has the past 6 months taught me ? This is a question I have often pondered the answer of, and I always wind up at the end of a familiar road of thoughts that have skimmed my mind and manifested in many different forms.

What I have learnt is primarily simple yet paradoxically multi faceted - an intricate web of interelating ideas and ideals.

Throughout the 16 countries I have visited I have found that despite the cultural, religious, obvious and covert differences we are all striving to achieve the same things from our lives: Ultimately we all want to derive meaning and purpose from each day, the difference lies in the ways in which we ascertain it.

Whilst travelling the world i found that the ways we interact, engage and connect to one another is the same. We all search for common ground, a simple way in which to converse with those with such different lives.

While in Malawi, one of the poorest Countries in the World, I saw how important it was to gain happiness from interaction. This can be as simple as smiling at a stranger, or walking home from school with a friend - it is the small acts of everyday kindness that is second nature which leaves images of broad smiling faces woven into your memory.

In Botswana, a purpose driven life was achieved through understanding the power and beauty of nature and having respect and appreciation of your given environment which leads you to an ethereal connectedness with the earth with little need or desire for material possessions .

In India, people take joy in everyday tasks such bartering at markets, cooking a meal for a new friend or extended family and worshipping one of the many Hindu Gods whether they be relevant to their life at that time or a long term favourite. Pleasure is taken in each moment, rather than over thinking the worries tomorrow may bring.

In Vietnam, kicking back after work with cheap beer, cooking tasty snacks in a bucket made into a barbecue with friends and laughing late into the night ensures that people maintain and uphold important relationships in a World where face to face interaction is diminishing.

In South Africa, the family network is central to most peoples lives. They have a deep rooted respect and love for siblings and parents that penetrates far beyond obligation that tends to taint the Western perception of family.

In Indonesia, not taking life too seriously meant you always heard the sound of laughter carried on the air. It would be infectious, and many times I found myself in fits of giggles not even sure what I was laughing at.

So what are these things we as humans seem to seek irrespective of where on planet Earth we live ? I believe the main ones are love ( to be loved and also to give love) , to be connected to each other, to have freedom to make decisions about our lives, to live in peace and ultimately, to be happy.

Happiness is often measured in concrete terms by the amount of money you earn or by a complex algorithm that has quantified different factors and calculated your “happiness index”.
What I have seen, the people I have met and my experiences have taught me that happiness is as subjective as our own personalities are - complicated, varied and impossible to define.

I once read that happiness has 7 billion definitions, one for each person on the planet. I loved that. We are all so different yet our hearts are the same.

Meeting such a diverse range of people across such a multi cultural spectrum has opened my mind to the complexity of human nature and given just a taste of what you can discover when you dare to walk in someone elses footsteps.

I am sad to be leaving this journey behind, having learnt so much each day for the past five and a half months, but
they say the greatest journeys like the greatest love affairs never truly end and the memories will stay with me forever.

I am most definitely in love with life and the kindness of people that is unbounded by country, race and religion. No man is an island, and I believe we all want to feel connected to those around us on some level.

I have enjoyed every day waking up with beautiful Orla, and feel this trip has served only to strengthen our friendship - through unbelievable memories we have shared together. She has kept me sane over these past few months, and I couldn’t imagine this trip would have been half as beautiful, fun or broadening without her by my side.

I am excited to return home to my family, boyfriend and friends whom I have missed dearly. Missing birthdays, changes in circumstance and peoples life events has been challenging and I am really looking forward to being immersed into my old life again.
It has truly been the trip of a lifetime and I feel humble and blessed to have had the opportunity to go and experience these things with my own eyes.

And so , a 13 hour flight is all between me and London - kleenex at the ready!

Indonesia : Lombok - a snapshot of Indonesian village life

emily-sarah — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 03:57:23 -0400

Compared to the three little Gili islands, Lombok seemed huge. As we travelled for miles to our Bungalow in Kuta, we saw endless rice paddy fields interspersed with tall, leaning palm trees all leading to a spectacular rugged coastline. Huge waves would build then crash onto the shore with such ferocity I was confused as to how anyone would surf here. The bays of sand seemed to stretch for endless miles, so different from the small and intimate beaches we had been on previously.

We met up with our friends we had made in Indonesia, who knew the area well. They took us to Salam Blaynak, a beach that was completely deserted - not one person in sight.

We enjoyed a lunch of fried noodles with vegetables and barbequed fish fresh off the beach. The portion size was huge so I could barely finish it !

After lunch, We walked for miles along the beach in the sunshine, our feet sinking into the sponge like sand. The coastline stretched endlessly, and we would watch dozens of light coloured crabs hurry into the water as the tide slowly moved in. At the end of the beach was a collection of huge, black, slippery rocks piled high into a mound. As we wandered out over them into the water we saw groups of large black crabs chilling out in the sun. As soon as we moved closer to them they would scurry away and hide from sight.

It was wonderful to enjoy the afternoon sun in such a remote location with no other tourists around. It made me think of the Thai islands and how busy they now are , I wonder if Indonesia will one day be like that?

Orla then did an Irish dance on the sand, hit a rock causing her whole little toenail to dislodge and fall out. We were far from anywhere and it was bleeding quite heavily so a couple of the guys we were with ran back along the beach for miles to get help.

They came back with the car and we went to a ‘clinic’, which consisted of someone’s living room that smelt of surgical spirit and had medical equipment inside. It was unnerving, but the lady there knew what she was doing and cleaned her toe perfectly.

After the trauma, we enjoyed some coconuts and snacks at the family house of one of our Indonesian friends before heading into one of the local rural villages. It was wonderful to see life from within their home environment. No one spoke any English, so we had to interact with them through anything but words - lots of acting & hand gestures necessary!

We spent a couple of hours there and by the time we left the children were all unbelievably excited , laughing and making lots of noise. It was totally intoxicating and once we had left it seemed strange that we had spent that whole time communicating in anything but words.

That evening we went to an Indonesian Karaoke bar which was one of the most surreal experiences I have had in a while . Drunken men would take the mic and wail along to tunes whilst mild porn would play behind the lyrics. It was strangely uncomfortable & unlike any Karaoke bars I have been to before !

Indonesia : Gorgeous Gili Trawangan

emily-sarah — Fri, 15 Jun 2012 10:26:00 -0400

Let me paint a picture. You step off the boat in the bright sunshine which is intense & hot yet the gentle breeze keeps you cool. As you look around, you can’t quite believe the beauty of what is before you.

Turquoise ocean that deepens to an intense navy blue twinkling under the suns rays, white sand under your feet and between your toes and spectacular majestic mountains peeking through the white fluffy clouds in the distance. The water is perfectly clear. You can see white coral fragments sitting on the sea floor being pushed out and pulled in with the steady ripple of the tide.

Tiny colourful fish are visible swimming in small schools just under the surface of the water. As you walk away from the sea, beach bars play reggae music and invite you inside with the lure of 2 for 1 cocktails.

There are no motorised vehicles, just push bikes and horse drawn carts so the only noise from traffic you hear is the tinkle of the horses bell or the “brriiing brriiing” of a bicycle bell.

This is Gili T.

We spent just over a week on the Island exploring by push bike and on foot. The night life was buzzing with everyone on the island watching the sun set then partying till the sun rose at Full Moon parties and rasta bars with live Reggae bands.

There is a nightly food market where you can buy fresh barracuda, snapper and jumbo prawns barbequed with veg and rice for under £2.

We stayed at some lovely little Bungalows set off the beach which was run by a lovely group of Indonesian people who became our very good friends. They were so generous, kind and so much fun! Raving all night, then working all day while we soaked up the sun on the beach. We would have conversations in fractured English and Indonesian, play cards and discuss the difference and similarities of our Cultures.

On one of the days we went on a snorkelling trip around the other Gili islands.

As I listened to the steady rhythm of my own breathing I was amazed at what I saw. Hoards of tropical fish were swimming around, apparently unfussed by our presence. The coral was spectacular - huge mushroomed shaped domes that are said to be some off the prettiest in the world. We were dropped off into some deeper water and I instantly felt small pinpricks all over my body. We were later told that we had been stung by tiny jellyfish but it was worth the discomfort for what we were about to see. The guide who was with us was frantically pointing downwards , and as we searched with our eyes we saw sea Turtles casually meandering along the coral , biting and chewing at the seaweed. It was in that moment , with nothing but the sound of inhale and exhale and the gentle clinking of the water, I felt suddenly overwhelmingly emotional in the realisation that we are such a small part of this beautiful world.

There are said to be over 15,000 islands in Indonesia , an overwhelming amount to even contemplate. Gili T gave us a sweet first taste of the beauty this diverse country and its people had to offer and it quickly became apparent that our 3 weeks here were not going to be long enough. I haven’t left yet and am already itching to come back … Or maybe its the jellyfish stings ? Hmm

Simulation Singapore : A perfectionist reality

emily-sarah — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 07:16:22 -0400

It is hard to spend a few days in Singapore and not leave feeling as if you have spent time within a futuristic computer simulation of what a perfect City should be.

It is immaculate, so clean you could comfortably sleep on the streets , unbelievably safe with crime rates are amongst the lowest in the World, everything is impeccable and runs beyond efficiently … Is it possible the oxygen you breathe in here is sweeter & purer than anywhere else too ?

Seriously though , the past few days I have felt as if I am in the futuristic world game of the SIMS. A character within a perfect World where there are TVs and wifi on the Metro, shops are branded intelligently and marketed with beautiful sophistication, young women are dressed in the latest generic fashions, there is practically no crime and the buildings are all stunning and carefully designed with roof top pools & mid floor tennis courts.

Sophia has a friend here that offered for us to stay in his flat, which we were really grateful for as the cheapest hostel you can get here is around $25 per night. This further added to our dreamlike experience where we could lounge watching television after spending the evening in the gym, swim in the outdoor pool or play a game of tennis if we wanted to.

On one of the days we went to Singapore Zoo which has been ranked as the 2nd best in the World.
The zoo was beautiful & as close to a natural rainforest as it is possible to create. Orang-utans swing happily in the trees above your head as you walk around and tropical birds swoop past your ears and even grab your hair if you’re unlucky! At times you forget you are in a Zoo and feel as if you have been transported hundreds of miles from the immaculate metropolis of Singapore.
You are also constantly learning as you wander around, with snippets of information & facts accompanying the enclosures.

We saw kangaroos, white Bengal Tigers, penguins, jaguars, Lions, leopards, cheetah , giant tortoises, Komodo dragons as well many other exotic animals.
It felt strange to see the same animals caged that we had seen roam freely in their natural habitat, and despite the distance at which you can view an animal on Safari, the experience and emotions you feel are incomparable when seeing them in captivity.

The following day we indulged in the Adults playground. During the day we head to the Raffles Hotel which was absolutely beautiful. Stunning white buildings contrasting against elegant gold decor, a real sense of 1900’s British glamour stamped all over it. We had a tantalising afternoon tea instead of the Singapore Sling that was invented there.

That evening we went to Marina Bay which was simply one of the most luxurious places I have visited. We enjoyed a cocktail at the rooftop bar which overlooked the hundreds of skyscrapers that littered the skyline.

It was a really special evening to share with Orla and Sophia and I couldn’t help but think of the diversity of the journey we had been on over the last 5 months. From the slums of India to the opulent rooftops of Singapore, I feel so lucky to have seen this all with my own eyes.

The shopping malls were irresistible, each shop branded to perfection with neat, snappy slogans and fantastic window displays. Every cuisine imaginable was available, and what did we choose to eat ? Soup… Plain & simple soup. Despite how boring a food choice this may seem, it was refreshing to enjoy some familiar wholesome food.
Inside the malls they have food courts where you can eat a plateful of delicious different dishes for just $5. On our last night we met up with our Canadian friends that we had trekked with in Malaysia , it was so lovely to see them & despite not knowing them for long, felt sad to say goodbye.

And so our time in Singapore came to a close. It is a place that has left a lasting impression on me not only for its cleanliness and efficiency but also for its glamour and splendour. The next time I come here will be when I have enough money to really enjoy it, which could be a long time away!

Malaysia : Kuala Lumpur - The Reggae Mansion Experience

emily-sarah — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 06:49:44 -0400

We had heard so much about The Reggae Mansion from all the people we had met in South East Asia that we just had to stay there and check it out … And I have to say - we weren’t disappointed!

For just £7 a night you get a private cubby bed in a dorm room with your own light, plug point, mirror and storage with the use of clean, new shared bathrooms. Breakfast is included as is drinking water along with clean linen and towels and free wifi and crisp air con.

Some of these things may seem trivial and unexciting, but when you have backpacked for a while and experienced some of the questionable accommodation that is avaliable, luxuries such as clean sheets and being able to turn out the light when you want to sleep are precious.

Not only are the sleeping arrangements first class, there is also a cinema , fantastic restaurant and roof top bar from which you can see the Petronas Towers.
The decor is plush, modern and carefully considered making you feel as if you really are in a millionaires mansion, a world away from our usual humble backpacking existence.

We met some really lovely people at the hostel and that evening went to the Sky Bar for a single espresso martini before eading to some of the bars and clubs that make KL a party destination. Luckily it was ladies night so we got free drinks in all the bars and partied the night away till 5am, dancing to a mix of r n b, drum and bass and reggae tunes before heading to a dingey Asian cafe for cheeky late night pancakes and Tandori chicken.

The next day we wore off the nagging hangover by visiting the Batu Caves on the outskirts of the City. We travelled there in the ladies only coach on the train which seemed really outdated for a place that had become so modern and Westernised.

We visited some beautiful Hindu temples and climbed the unending staircase that led us up to the caves. It was refresingly cold as we wandered around craning our necks skyward to see the beautiful opening that was above us.

We had a great few days exploring the Chinese Markets and Little India and many other treasures KL had to offer but were excited to move onto the much discussed land of Singapore.

Malaysia : The Cameron Highlands - Strawberry Fields, Dancing with Butterflies, Tea Plantations and Mossy Forest Trekking

emily-sarah — Sun, 03 Jun 2012 05:15:18 -0400

I think this day will stand out in my memory as one of my favourites in South East Asia.

We got up early & jumped into a jeep that was going to take us up a mountain to do some trekking. The day didn’t get off to the best start as the driver somehow managed to nearly blow up the engine by getting the gear stick stuck !

But then we were off ! Winding up a steep and lush path to the Mossy Forest to start our trek, we stopped off at the Tea Plantation. Rolling green hills stretched for as far as the eye could see, deep chasms cut into the land creating valleys that housed gushing streams and rivers . A delicate smell of fresh tea lingered on the air, sweeter & livelier than you have ever smelt before it danced upon the wind delighting your nostrils as they absorbed a scent so familiar. I have never seen a green colour so intense before, it contrasted against the light blue of the sky magnificently - the perfect postcard picture.

The people who pick and harvest the tea work so hard , 6 day weeks on a 3 year contract … It made me contemplate the difference between working to live and living to work. Most of them are immigrants who send the money they earn home to their families, never being able to enjoy the fruits of their tough manual labour. It really makes you appreciate how fortunate we are to be able to work and enjoy the pleasures of everyday life such as cooking a meal and enjoying it in your own home with your family.

We hopped back into the jeep and carried on our ascent into the forest. The higher we climbed, the colder it became and mist soon surrounded us as we approached the forest . We began to trek into a world that looked like a scene from Lord of the Rings, eerie, damp and dark. It was refreshing to be out of the humid heat and felt good to clamber and climb our way through the overgrown bushes and trees along the trek. There were cobwebs everywhere glistening with dew drops from the moisture that hung on the air. It was unlike anywhere I have ever been and felt like I had been transported into a fairytale world where mythical creatures were going to appear from between the trees.

After trekking, we head to the Butterfly Farm which had a spectacular array of bugs and insects that were equally as surreal to see. Horn beetles, stick insects, slithery snakes, lizards with glue like grip and giant tortoises - all of which you could hold and touch if you wanted to. The butterflies were so beautiful, dancing and fluttering around within the humid tent where they lived. They would land on your clothes and your head before gently flitting off to find the nectar of the big, bright flowers that had grown in every spare bit of space.

Feeling happy and excited, we finished the tour at a Strawberry field where we ate strawberries and cream as we looked out over the vast fields of ripe and delicious red fruits that were sweeter than any I have ever tasted.

We head for the bus station to catch our bus to Kuala Lumpur feeling tired, muddy but exhilarated. We hadn’t planned to visit the Cameron Highlands but I am so glad we did. To see a glimpse of the rural side of life in a Country where most live in the Cities was refreshing and unbelievably beautiful.

Malaysia: Eat + Penang = Love

emily-sarah — Sun, 03 Jun 2012 04:54:29 -0400

It all starts with some fish. Smelly, horrible fish that became more pungent the further we travelled. A Thai guy who was taking us from Koh Samui to Penang must own a restaurant , or some fish business as the van we travelled in was piled high with it !

We arrived in Penang late at night and head straight for our Hostel which was really plush , had freezing cold air con & was situated next to the Paradise Food Market which is acclaimed as being one of the best in the World. We were so tired from a long day of travelling that we crashed out straight away, falling asleep within minutes.

The following day we explored Georgetown which was a mix of British influenced architecture accompanied by Malaysian quirks which gave the place a unique fuse of feeling modern and contemporary yet having a distinct heritage. The City was clean, fresh & easy to get around - it was becoming clear why this ranked as being the easiest country to navigate around in South East Asia.

Luckily we met a really lovely guy called Soso, who was studying at Penang University and offered to show us around. He taught us how to play pool and took us the National Park which was like a humid, damp rainforest bordered by deserted beaches. You could hear birds sqwalking, monkeys playing in the trees and all sorts of insects clicking & reverberating through the jungle canopy.

That night we went to the cinema to see Titanic 3D , it was so nice to have a little snippet of our old Western life and I felt myself getting completely lost in the 1920’s world - forgetting I was in 21st Century Malaysia for a little while.

On the Saturday night we got dressed up and went out to some of the bars and clubs that make Penang a party destination. There were a lot more men than women , but one thing is for sure - they all love to party ! Any stereotypes of Asians being shy and retiring are now erased from my mind having seen the breakdancing and insane amount of alcohol that Malaysians can drink on a night out.

So , onto the food. It truly was some of the best food I have ever tasted. We ate nearly every meal at the food market which had every cuisine available you could imagine . We enjoyed freshly rolled sushi, sweet and sticky Japanese teryaki salmon, creamy coconutty Caribbean chicken,BBQ Chinese pork, smoking lamb bhuna and skewer upon skewer of chicken satay. Each meal was no more than £3 and came with a variety of sides , we were truly in food paradise. We would each get a dish & share & try eachothers knowing it would be an impossibility to sample all the delicious dishes on offer in only a few days.

It was the first time in my life I wished I had a much larger appetite and could sit eating for hours, limitlessly savouring all the different cuisines. But you know what they say - a moment on the lips , a lifetime on the hips!

I really enjoyed my time in Penang. It had a bit of everything: divine food, lovely people, spectacular nature trails and beaches aswell as pumping night life. It is hard to deny that Western influence is seeping into every corner of this City but you don’t have to go far to feel and see not only the Asian History of Penang, but also its prevalence & importance to the Malay who live there today.

( Japanese tourists taking a photo of us as we ate dinner :) )

The Thai Islands : Paradise Lost? I don't think so...

emily-sarah — Sun, 20 May 2012 01:35:00 -0400

The Thai islands have a wonderful charm. Having come from places that can, at times, be difficult to travel to and around, it was a delight to find the whole process was easy & good value for money.

We left Bangkok after meeting Holly & Sophia and making our bus by the skin of our teeth ! It was amazing to see them, we were all so excited to get going & experience the Thai islands having heard so much about them from other friends & family who had travelled there.

As soon as the ferry left the port at Surrathani we slowly approached paradise. Turquoise blue water so clear you can see the fish swimming is fringed by white sparkling sand that is powdery to the touch. The landscape is stunning - lush and rugged making you feel like you have stepped out of reality and into a dream Jurassic world. The boat was packed full of people rushing to the Island to make the infamous ‘Full Moon Party’ , a fleeting stop on their adventures around Thailand.

Anyone that comes here cannot deny that the presence of Western tourists somewhat hampers the experience, and many times conversations drift into the past with travellers nostalgically day dreaming about what it would have been like to travel here 20 years ago when The Full Moon party was an eclectic little known rave and you had to muddle through a sentence in fractured Thai for lack of knowledge of English.

However, we found that by researching a little it was fairly simple to find spots that were secluded and could offer their own little chunk of exclusivity.

The first island we travelled to was Koh Pagnan, most famous for its monthly Full Moon party and little known for its stunning scenery. We stayed in the North of the island at a quiet resort called Starlight. It was peaceful, tranquil and practically deserted which gave us the perfect place to relax in the sunshine and catch up with Drew, Holly & Sophia who had flown out to meet us. There were plenty of restaurants and bars on the beach where we would while away evenings eating delicious Thai food and watching fire shows. We of course attended the monthly Full Moon party which was a bucket fuelled frenzy of drum and bass music, raving and splashing in the sea as we watched the sunrise.

After the madness of KPN we travelled to Koh Tao, a tiny island famous for Scuba diving & cheap PADI courses. We thought we would get some time to chill out, but found this island had more of a party atmosphere than the last & lost days in a haze of alcohol, music, beaches & bar crawls. The island was again really beautiful & i will definitely return there to do my diving course when i am over in this part of the world again.

The last Island we visited was Koh Samui. Being one of the more built up Islands, it was clear to see the demographic of people who visited there was an older crowd. We hired a jeep & explored the Islands Waterfalls and temples which were really beautiful. Again, we stayed out of the main Tourist area at a quieter, less busy beach that was wonderful to swim & relax at. After days of exploring the island the came time for us to say goodbye to Holly & Drew and continue on down to Malaysia. It was really strange knowing the next time we would see them would be at home in a mere few weeks time, a paradox of dread & excitement.

You can easily see how people get trapped on the Islands, days slip by in the blink of an eye as you find your self watching the sun setting over paradise once again. We have met lots of people who had travel plans of grandeur who have traded them in to spend their whole time away relaxing , partying and meeting the droves of Tourists who flock here increasingly each year.

With destinations exotic, intriguing and far more Cultural so nearby ( Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam…) i find it hard to see the appeal . It was fun for the couple of weeks we were there and i truly loved every second of it, but you lose that sense of achievement and broadening that travel gives you when you are somewhere that every menu features Fish and Chips and the closest you can get to the Culture is watching a Ladyboy cabaret show.

The past fortnight has been a haze of sparkling blue sea, glistening white sand, neon raves, pub crawls, mopeds, jeeps , waterfalls & temples. It hasn’t been the most culturally diverse or awakening part of our trip but it has been a hell of a lot of fun! We have saved Koh Phi Phi for the end of our trip to savour a last piece of heaven before returning home to the UK, hopefully we will get to camp on Maya beach where the film The Beach was set & swim with Firefies in the rain… What a beautiful dream!

Cambodia : the horror of the Killing Fields and the Khmer Rouge

emily-sarah — Thu, 03 May 2012 05:35:04 -0400

Visiting the Killing Fields was the most emotional and heartbreaking experience of my life.

To stand upon the earth where such vile and unrelenting Genocide occurred churns up an emotion unlike any I have ever felt before.
I felt an emotion beyond sadness, an empty disbelief at the capability of mankind to torture and brutally murder innocent civilians under a warped regime of a severely disillusioned man. I won’t go into details of what we heard and saw as I believe you have to be in the right frame of mind to learn about these things and some of what we saw and heard was extremely graphic.

You cannot experience something like that without thinking about your own life, it forces you to contemplate how fortunate we are to live in a place where liberty, freedom and peace are paramount. As I wonder around I find myself looking at nameless faces wondering what their connection is to those lost under the Khmer Rouge regime. Mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters, children - all sentenced to death as punishment for their stature and education. One of Pol Pots philosophies was that it was better to end an innocent human life rather than risk letting an enemy live.

These people were not enemies - they were doctors, nurses, teachers, business people who were educating, healing and making Cambodia prosper. I will never understand his ideology, it seems increasingly more barbaric the more I learn.

The walking tour and audio tour were superb- a wonderful mix of facts, stories, classical music complemented with visiting the actual sites where these atrocities occurred bringing something that you can only ever imagine to be fictitious to life.

The memory of the murders that occurred at the Killing Fields is still very evident, and I believe will be for a long time. It is still very much resting upon the surface of Cambodian history yet the scars are deep , raw and will never fully heal.

I believe these experiences shape you in some way, I mean - how could it not ? Despite how tough it is to experience emotionally, it was an education and fundamental to understanding Cambodian history and their desire to make their Kingdom grow and thrive.

Ho Chi Minh City - The War Remnants Museum & Cu Chi Tunnels

emily-sarah — Thu, 03 May 2012 04:27:33 -0400

Today i learnt the true meaning of the word harrowing. Images of the innocent victims and damage caused by the Vietnam War will remain with me forever.

Admittedly I know little about the Vietnam war, having not been taught about it in History classes my knowledge extends to what I learnt in Washington when we visited the missing persons register which was completely overwhelming - volumes upon volumes of leather bound books featuring name after name of the deceased and missing Vietnamese and American soldiers and civilians, in addition to all those who were nameless , the unidentified.

Some of the images, captions and stories were instantly shocking and upsetting whereas others had a more creeping effect- slowly seeping into your mind recalled in a quiet moment catching you unaware.

The following day we went to see the Cu Chi tunnels that the Vietnamese used to evade the USA during the war and eventually was instrumental in their success. I found this far less depressing than the museum that focused on the devastation caused and enjoyed exploring the network of tunnels that were such a symbol of hope to all those subject to such horrific atrocities during a time where there was little to be hopeful about.

We stayed in a fantastic Hostel called MyMy where we met some really interesting, friendly and kind people which numbed the pain of having to walk up 6 flights of stairs to the dorm room!

The utter devastation caused to Vietnam is simply overwhelming, and has given me a new found appreciation of the strength and spirit of the Vietnamise people and their resilience in rebuilding their Country.

Turning 23 in heavenly Halong Bay upon The Au Co

emily-sarah — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 06:51:00 -0400

This day seems to have come around very fast. It always seemed way off, around the middle of our trip - an elusive signal that time was already passing quickly. We all wanted to do something special to celebrate so decided to book a boat to cruise around Halong Bay.

The boat we chose was called the Au Co and had gone on its maiden voyage just 2 weeks earlier. It dripped in luxury: a jacuzzi on the back of the boat, dark wooden finish on all the interiors, private balconies, welcome cocktails, 5 course lunches and dinners all topped off with impeccable service. As we would get onto the boat after an excursion we would be given chilled minted towels to clean ourselves with and iced tea to rehydrate. It was all these small touches that made the whole experience really special and unique making the boat feel welcoming and homely each time we stepped on board.

(Oozing luxury - The Au Co )

Halong Bay is unlike anywhere I have ever been before, somewhere that photographs most certainly do not do justice. It is truly mystifying. A tingling mist hangs low upon and between the islands creating an eerie aura as each island only comes into view as you approach it. You feel as if you have fallen out the back of a wardrobe & into Narnia - transported into a secret mythical film set that couldn’t possibly actually exist in the ‘real world’.

The day after my birthday we got really lucky with the weather and got to experience a rare hot and sunny day which was a totally different experience yet equally as stunning as the sun shifted through the islands to create a stunning sunset that danced upon the glistening waters. Over the 3 days we got to do lots of exciting activities. We visited local floating fishing villages, swam in the emerald green water, kayaked to the white sand bays of the islands, had Vietnamese cooking lessons and explored deep, dark caves hidden in the hills. My favourite excursion was a mountain biking trip to Cat Ba island which has been classified as a National Park.

(Mountain Biking Cat Ba National Park)

The rugged, mountainous landscape of the island was as you imagine a secluded natural island to be : lush, green, humid, the air full of the sounds of squawking birds and clicking crickets as well as the odd screech of a wild monkey. Butterfly’s flitted around us as we cycled past endless paddy fields where oxen grazed and Vietnamise people tended to their crops. Never before have I seen such a beautiful natural habitat, I envied those who live nestled amongst such spectacular sights an got to wake up to such paradise each day.

The food on the boat was absolutely amazing. Each meal we were served consisted of 5 carefully considered and impeccably prepared courses that the word ‘gourmet’ struggles to do justice. My favourite meal was a honey and ginger glazed salmon dish which was simply mouth watering.

( King Shrimp and Dragon Fruit Salad Starter)

It was the first birthday I have ever spent away from home and I did miss seeing my family & friends. It was lovely to have James with Orla and I and be able to open cards he had bought out from home. I feel incredibly lucky to have had such a luxurious experience during a time when we are so used to scrimping and saving and have Mr James Fox to thank for that - so if you are reading this a big kiss from me to you ! Halong Bay felt like a dream, I can think of no better way I could spend celebrating the beginning of my 23rd year.

Oh and post Vietnamese cooking lesson - i can now make Spring Rolls !

Honking Hanoi : the love of Vietnam begins

emily-sarah — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 05:01:29 -0400

Think of Vietnam. What do you imagine ?

If you are anything like me, images of lampshade straw hats, bright lanterns, lush paddies and noodles floating in soup will spring to mind. Vietnam most certainly conjures up these stereotypes for a reason - they are everywhere.

We stayed in old Hanoi at a lovely hotel where the staff would bend over backwards to accommodate us with ear to ear grins and genuine wide, kind eyes. As we wandered around, the streets evoked memories of India with stray dogs, honking motorbikes and street food littering the worn and tired pathways. Everything felt and looked worn, yet this contributed to the endearing charm of the old part of the city.

What struck me most & touched my heart more than anything i have experienced in South East Asia is the sense of Community you not only see but also feel here. Friends hop on motorbikes with arms full of beer and little stools, arrange a random place to meet on the street and set up a little area where they will cook food upon a makeshift barbecue made from a tin bin filled with charcoal. These groups are everywhere - you are forced to walk in the road amongst the crazy traffic as the streets are completely covered with people laughing , drinking, sharing stories, snacks and beer late into the night.

Mesmerised by the incredible sights of Hanoi we walked through the streets until we found ‘Beer Corner’ where Cafes on each corner of an ‘X’ junction knock out 3 large beers for under £1 and you can sit and watch the world go by upon a tiny plastic stool big enough for a child.

Lonely Planet describes being in Hanoi as feeling as if you are in a film set, and James (having never read this ) instantly told us he felt as if we were in the beginning of a Bond film as the mopeds sped down the network of streets that were covered in groups of friends socialising after work. There is an almost indescribable aura emitted by the friends, families , couples and individuals of Hanoi . People seem to be so happy and communal, living within a culture where sharing is second nature and cultivating and maintaining relationships is of the utmost importance .

Travelling sometimes makes me feel sad about England and the way in which we live. Progressively we are moving towards a digital age, where face to face interaction is being replaced with Status Updates, Tweets, Emails and instant messaging. I am guilty of this myself, being a self professed Social Media addict i love to keep in touch and share aspects of my life with with friends through Facebook & Twitter. Yet i always try to be mindful of the need and importance of establishing and maintaining face to face communication with those who are important to me, even if it is not as regularly as I would like.

Money in Vietnam is confusing - there is currently around 32,000 Dong to the £1 which requires quick maths when trying to work out the comparative cost of things. Being a capital City it is not cheap but we have still managed to find some shops to stock up on souvenirs and toot !

It is my 23rd Birthday tomorrow, we are currently heading to Halong Bay where we are going on a 3 day , 5* Cruise - oh the luxury!

So this is me signing off as a 22 year old - see you on the other side!

Loving life , tubing & buckets- Vang Vieng Laos.

emily-sarah — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 11:17:03 -0400

Loving life , tubing & buckets- Vang Vieng Laos.

Meandering up the Mekong to Laos : Tubing, Cycling & The slowest boat known to man

emily-sarah — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 12:10:05 -0400

The easiest and cheapest route to get from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang is to get a slow boat that takes around 3 days. Having been told that the scenery was amongst some of the most beautiful i was ever likely to see , i was excited to set sail on what in my mind was going to be a romantic & mystical journey along the majestic Mekong River.

As soon as we stepped onto the boat, i could see the fairytale adventure i had envisaged was in fact going to be 3 days of drunken Western Tourists moaning about being squashed into a boat they had overpaid for. Despite 120 people being packed into a boat that seats 70, followed by an unsuccessful protest demanding another boat and our luggage being chucked onto the roof - we set sail for 3 days of fun on a ‘slow’ boat that most definitely lived up to its name.

As promised the scenery was simply breathtaking. Bright orange clad monks in speedboats dotted the rippling waters as we passed mountains that were covered in trees that were taller than any i have ever seen. Sharp and jagged granite formations rose from the water not far from pristine white sand banks that juxtaposed against the vivid green backdrop formed by luscious tall trees. During our trip, Orla , James and I went and sat at the very front of the outside of the boat just the three of us sharing the splendor of what surrounded us.

That evening a night bus was leaving for Vang Vieng so we jumped on happy to gain an extra day Tubing. The bus was hot , sticky and overfilled, ended up taking 10 hours instead of 6 and as we were all asleep - we missed our stop! 5KM’s past were we were supposed to get off , James woke up & shouted at the driver to STOP THE BUS… the three of us stumbled out, half asleep into the middle of nowhere and were joined by Bette who was to become a very good friend.

The sun was rising and we had nowhere to sleep and no way of getting to Vang Vieng - things looked pretty grim. We spotted a house with a tuk tuk in the driveway and approached the man who owned it. We all tried to communicate with him via words, actions and noises yet nothing worked - he clearly didn’t speak English. Then as a last ditch attempt Bette spoke to him in Chinese & he agreed to take us into Town , it felt like Christmas.

We stayed in lovely, wooden Riverside Bungalows that had a beautiful scenic view out over the river we would later tube down. The four of us got changed, rented tubes and head up the hill to begin our day of alcohol, river water , drum n bass filled fun. Later that evening we met up with James friends who we were going Tubing with the next day & enjoyed a night of Beer Pong, Pool & Pad Thai.

The rest of our tubing experience was carnage to say the least. Lost clothing, twisted ankles, broken tubes, grazed body parts upon the rocks and cracked toenails all resulted from an innocent float down a lazy river.

Our next stop was Luang Prabang , a beautiful European like town nestled within the hills of Laos . We rented bikes and rode around the little streets before stopping at a hill side bar that was lit with fairy lights & sold 2 for 1 cocktails all night long.

We ate at a night market where you could fill your plate with noodles, salad and vegetables for 10,000 Kip which is about 90p! We also had some fish that had been caught in the river Mekong, the most delicious and fresh dinner for under £1.20.

I have a soft spot for Laos. It is a Country full of kind and caring people who are always so happy to help you and welcome you with genuine smiles.

There is a great mix of stunning natural scenery, traditional temples and restaurants as well as a thriving social scene. I think i could easily have stayed longer to discover more of its treasures, yet was keen to keep my remaining big toenail & liver in tact.

Elephant trekking in the sweltering jungle

emily-sarah — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:08:19 -0400

Elephant trekking in the sweltering jungle

Two Roads - One Journey

emily-sarah — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:03:08 -0400

I feel as if I left a piece of my heart in Africa. So touched and humbled by the people that make the continent so adorable, a tiny piece of me is left with them.

In the same vain I feel that India has shaped my soul - making me question my life, my aspirations for my future and appreciate all those I love so dearly .

I realise these are bold statements - romantic and roll of the tongue onto screen oh so easily, to paint a great travel ‘journey’ when this chapter of my life is over. But I mean what I write, I honestly do.

Each child we met so keen to learn yet forced to work to earn enough rupees to feed their family made me appreciate how incredible my own education was, and how fortunate I am to have had a Father who always encouraged me to be the best I could be - even if that meant forcing me out of bed on Saturday mornings for swimming lessons. The young people we spoke to who had secret girlfriends / boyfriends because their parents had already lined up a partner for marriage made me grateful I have the freedom to fall in love and spend my life with who I choose, without pressure to consult my family about my decisions.

The importance of family within Indian culture made me want to spend more time with my parents and sisters - realising I have a friendship with each of them detached from simply being “family”.

My ideas about religion have been streamlined by learning about Hinduism - something that has confused & fascinated me from the romantic symbolism of camels to worshipping a baby with an elephants head.

I am so thankful we came here. I feel as if I am leaving a place that I have only just been introduced to behind … We have had our first date, flirted , winked and smiled - leaving only desperate to return to uncover more of its secrets.

I never expected India, or travelling in general, to be such an education. I learn something new everyday and feel I have gained skills I will use for the rest of my life.

Travelling allows you to wake up everyday and be grateful of life - grateful that you are living your dream and to realise that in reality it was more than you ever expected it to be.

The whole experience has been a heady and intoxicating flurry of : colour: - fuscia pinks, glimmering golds, turquoise blues, emerald greens and deep Rajasthani reds, animals: sacred cows, painted elephants, cheeky monkeys, stray dogs and bleeting goats, food: paneer cheese, chapati, iced coffee, masala chai, and delicious fruit Lassis, and of course people : sweet and generous Indian families who made us welcome in their homes, Indian men who would shamelessly stare, young Indian girls so interested in Western life and fashion and other travellers who shared the same passion for India that we have both discovered.

I will miss the sweltering streets, honking horns, sweet and spicy smelling air, endearing head shake, romantic beautiful buildings, treasure trove shops, burning incense, constant haggling, extravagant fashions, sweet afternoon Chai, glittering jewellery and mouthwatering food so much, yet know this is a place to which I will most definitely return.

I would not believe all India was, is and will be had I not seen it with my own eyes. It has exhausted, stretched and challenged every cell in my body , assaulted my senses and shaken me alive again.

India , I thank you.

Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai: Trekking with Elephants, Bamboo Rafting & Buzzing night street markets

emily-sarah — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 01:51:29 -0400

We left Bangkok on Sunday evening by sleeper train . Compared with our experience in India the train was far cleaner, bigger and more relaxed. We had an uncomfortable nights sleep but woke up to the beautiful surroundings of Chiang Mai - lush tropical palm trees, rolling hills, bright green paddy fields and bright hot sunshine. After showering at our hotel we went for lunch before exploring the town.

There was a fabulous street market which sold all sorts of trinkets and gifts from handmade soaps to fake watches to beautiful clothes. We head straight for the food section where we ate pancakes, chicken drumsticks and sweet coconut rice and mango for around 30-40 Baht which is just under £1.
The next morning we had breakfast and head into the jungle to begin our elephant trek. We arranged our tour through an operator who assured us that the elephants were treated well and not harmed in any way during the trek. The scenery was beautiful but the terrain was really steep and uneven which meant we were constantly slipping off our seats, the elephants seemed happy enough but I probably wouldn’t do it again. Then came my favourite part of the day, we sailed down the river on handmade bamboo rafts - the hot sun gently beating down through the canopy of trees above us. I could have stayed there all day, peaceful and relaxed as we bumped past rocky boulders and small villages on the river bank.

We went to a local Thai cafe for lunch which consisted of fried rice, vegetables and potatoes before going to a local village which reminded me of the rural villages we visited in Africa. The local women were weaving scarves and furnishings and the young children were selling jewelery, it is very common for a tour company to take you to a friend of theirs to try and make some commission off anything you buy. We then started a short walk past lush, green paddy fields up to a beautiful gushing waterfall & couldn’t wait to get in and cool down. The current was really strong and we could literally run against it and not move anywhere - even when James picked me up and dropped me in the water i just floated back downstream. In that moment i felt so blissful, totally and completely content with the precious beauty of my life. I often procrastinate about how lucky i am to have this experience and how unique , diverse and utterly marvellous our World is. Each day everything i see inspires me to see more of our Planet and the splendor of a cascading waterfall is most definitely part of that.

We happen to be travelling during Thai New Year which has given everywhere we have travelled in an exciting, unique buzz. It is customary to drench cars and people in water so staying dry is completely impossible! Unlike our experience of Holi Festival in India, the local people seem to approach the festival in a gentle and authentic way with no malice or harm meant in any way.

In general, Thailand has been what I would term a ‘reverse Culture Shock’ - coming from India we have found everything far easier & ultimately more Western than anywhere else we have travelled. In Bangkok Rhianna blares from bars, there is a McDonalds on every corner and Thai people are outnumbered by British, Australian & American ‘travellers’, yet in Northern Thailand there is far less of this and you do not have to travel far off the beaten track to see glimpses of real Thai Culture.

I thought South East Asia would have a really tough job competing in any way with the mesmerising heavyweights of Africa and India, yet Thailand has a unique and smiling charm that captures you instantly and i now completely understand why it is one of the most commonly travelled places Worldwide. The food is deliciously mouthwatering, the scenery unbelievable and the inhabitants are up there with the most accomodating and polite people we have met so far.

Happy, happy, happy on the slow boat to Luang Prabang :)

emily-sarah — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 07:40:46 -0400

Happy, happy, happy on the slow boat to Luang Prabang :)

Bangkok: The Reunion

emily-sarah — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:13:00 -0400

Orla and I arrived around 3pm & went for a late Italian lunch and a couple of Cocktails, soaking in the madness of Bangkok. Waiting on Koh San Road in a white dress & turquoise pashmina , i eagerly awaited James’s arrival.

Feeling a little drunk, excitement pulsed through me knowing that soon he would soon walk down the road after what had felt like endless months apart.

Music was blaring from every bar & speaker, the air was filled with the smell of sweet spices and fruit, everywhere i looked i could see nameless faces - and then i saw him.

It was so strange to finally be encased within a moment that i had thought about for so long, neither of us could stop smiling and laughing feeling completely and utterly elated to finally be able to spend time together again.

That evening we all went out and met up with our friend Steph who we had met in Africa. James bought us our first ‘bucket’ - and after that it is all a bit of a blur! We went to an Irish bar where Orla Irish danced , had endless Sambucca shots & Chang, treated ourselves to midnight Pad Thai’s and whiled away the hours singing our little hearts out - enjoying hearing Western music again.

Despite our time apart, within moments everything felt just as it had before i had left … actually it felt better .

Time and distance allow you to grow, to think and to reflect - and in our case has allowed us to realise how lucky we are to have one another and to be able to share precious moments together while we are living out our dreams.

The lush Paddy Fields of Chiang Mai during our elephant trek

emily-sarah — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 06:03:31 -0400

The lush Paddy Fields of Chiang Mai during our elephant trek